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Negril is a world apart. The pristine beauty that brought it fame is only a memory, but the magic persists.

Like a gaudy shell necklace, a conglomeration of tourist facilities fringes the coast for 15 miles from Bloody Bay to the Lighthouse and continues to grow at both ends. The famous seven mile beach is now choc-a-bloc with hotels, restaurants, cottages and water sports. The once deserted Norman Manley Boulevard is a speedtrack for buses, vans, motorbikes and taxis. Across the bridge, shopping plazas have proliferated. The West End (alias The Rock) is where ironshore cliffs plunge to turquoise seas and reggae throbs all night is. But, incredibly, the magic persists.

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